Saving the sounds of the ancient city of Cairo

When cities grow and change, it is easy to take stock only of what is distinctly visible: new buildings, new bridges, new roads.What fades away more gradually are the sounds that define these places — noises that may seem to live in the background of our experiences but in fact have the power to evoke some of our most visceral memories and feelings.In Cairo, one of the world’s great ancient cities — and one of its noisiest — ambitious development goals and a soaring population have led to dramatic urban changes in recent years.Old architecture is crumbling. Egypt has planned a gradual relocation of government offices to the new development.The changes — some of them controversial among Cairenes — are reshaping the Arab world’s most populous country.Overwhelmed by the chaos of older neighborhoods, many residents who can afford it are moving to modern, quieter compounds on the outskirts of the current capital — seeking relief from congestion, traffic and, yes, noise.This migration looks to dramatically remake the city’s soundscape in the years to come.For the past several years, Youssef Sherif, 28, and Nehal Ezz, 26, have wandered the Egyptian capital in search of the cries of street vendors, the tap tap tap of metal workers in their shops, the cacophony of chaotic traffic. Minibus drivers, often driving at breakneck speed, call out their destinations as they stop to pick up or drop off riders, who cram into rows of well-worn seats.Massive infrastructure projects are trying to reduce traffic congestion, although many Cairenes say new roads and bridges have introduced their own sets of problems and will forever alter the layouts of historic neighborhoods.The repetitive call echoes through many of Cairo’s neighborhoods all day long, as men on bikes, trikes and donkey carts invite residents to come outside and hand over their old belongings, including appliances and assorted unwanted junk.